London Fat Duck

There's been a slew of roasted duck heavyweights launched over the past few months; London Fat Duck being one of them. Part of the Akashi Group, this casual Cantonese eatery marks the Japanese-centric group's first foray into Chinese cuisine. Here, the unique selling point is the use of Irish duck, renowned as the "wagyu of ducks".

The small-ish restaurant doesn't take reservations at this point in time. As expected, there are long queues at peak dining hours. So I suggest dining at an inopportune time or hold off till the new-ish gleam of the restaurant dulls and the crowd fizzes out. If you're inclined to wait in line, turnover is high and service expeditious (albeit frenzied), so unless you're dining in a large group, waiting times don't exceed half an hour.

Long queues aside, the Scotts Square tenant is an occupiers-liability lawsuit waiting to happen; the floors were so oily that, even with my rubber-soled heels, I had to hold onto the Hubs for support. It was a nightmare walking in and out.

The food was a bit of a hit-and-miss. The Signature London Roast Duck ($12.80 for regular) was gamey and chewy and dry. Terribly disappointing, considering its signature dish status. Suffice to say, we didn't finish this.

The Barbecue Pork with Honey ($14.80) was absolutely smashing. Beautifully caramelized with a sticky honeyed glaze, and meltingly luscious, this was perhaps the best char siew I've had in a while. I'll return just for this.

The Hongkong Wanton Noodle ($6.80) was decent, if a little pedestrian. The shrimp dumplings were juicy and bouncy, while the noodles had a lovely bite.

The London Roast Duck Noodle ($7.80) was better on its own, plain, without the duck, which was double whammy with its gamey taste and lean breast cut.

London Fat Duck
6 Scotts Road
Scotts Square B1-16
Tel: 6443 7866
Open weekdays from 11am to 10pm; weekends and PH from 10am to 10pm
Website: www.londonfatduck.com.sg

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