The menu's decidedly modern Thai, where the classics are reinvented with frilly sensibilities. Jahn's fare is truly exquisite, and makes for a wonderfully dressy date-night. Their robust fare pulls no punches, so if you can't take the spice, do inform the staff accordingly. That said, strictly as a matter of preference, nothing quite beats sitting in a breezy beachside hut quaffing down steaming hot bowls of tom yum goong and picking at swimmingly fresh seafood.
At the recommendation of the congenial enthusiastic staff, we ordered a single portion of the Tasting of Jahn Degustation Menu (2,999THB/S$120) and supplemented it with a few ala carte options.
Dinner kicked off with a trio of Hors D’Oeuvres with a Mahor Chicken, a dense ball of mince glazed with a honeyed spice sauce; Fresh Spring Roll with Fish, slathered with a mild curried cream; and Betel Leaf Boat Prawns, grilled perfectly and blanketed in toasted bread flakes.
The amuse bouche of Thai Beef Tartare was next, bursting with clean clear flavours, and lightly spiked with chilli and onion bits.
The Gai Hor Bai Toey was a succulent chicken fillet swaddled in pandanus leaves and deep-fried, drizzled with a spicy sweet glaze, and paired with a green papaya salad topped with papaya caviar and cashew nuts.
The serving of the Tom Yum Goong, the ubiquitous hot and sour soup dotted with tiger prawns, shallots, coriander and red chili, was about the most theatrical presentation ever. First, a carafe of steaming hot seafood broth was steeped through a bunch of lemongrass, galangal and chilli jellies in a teapot.
Then, the herb-infused broth was poured all over the duo of grilled prawns.
Extra chilli jellies in case you really like it hot!
After all that heavy spice, Rosella and Lemongrass Sorbets were served to cleanse the palate.
We opted for the Massaman of Wagyu Beef main, a fantastic hunk of full-bodied tenderloin grilled to a lush finish, slathered in a luscious nutty curry and served with new potatoes, pearl and red onions, straw mushrooms.
This was paired with a lurid-green Lemongrass Rice, fluffy and aromatic and delicious on its own, sans curry.
The pre-dessert was a refreshing Thai Melon Sorbet and fresh dragonfruit dice, kicked up a notch with midori.
Another pre-dessert of Black Glutinous Rice blanketed in warm coconut milk and juxtaposed against coconut ice-cream.
For dessert, we had an artfully plated moist Sweet Potato Tart, married with a nuanced apple compote, passion fruit coulis and icy guava sorbet.
The finisher was a Petit Fours with fruit jellies, macarons, marshmallows and chocolate truffles, all of which were pedestrian save for the green tea-dusted marshmallow.
From the ala carte menu, the sumptuous Scallop & Prawn Panang Curry (THB950/S$38) with fat juicy scallops, and fresh bouncy Gulf of Thailand prawns balanced with fruity jackfruit and pineapple, and cashews, was a must-try.
The Moo Palo (THB1,300/S$52), a upscale deconstructed version of pork cutlet noodles, was a slab of pork spare ribs marinated in Chinese five-spice, served with spinach-laced egg noodles, a poached egg, oyster sauce, king oyster mushrooms,and fried beancurd.
The towering Chocolate Souffle with Chilli (THB600/S$24) was perfectly textured and balanced, even if it wasn't the best I've ever had. The rich pistachio ice-cream was outstanding though.
The gorgeous restaurant, mostly because of the stunning views it affords.
The best table in the house, right at the far corner of the room with the best vantage of the five sisters islands in the distance.
Conrad Koh Samui
Open daily from 6pm to 11pm