Red House at The Quayside

Red House Seafood is one of the oldest seafood restaurants in Singapore. And like its contemporaries Jumbo and Long Beach, what was once a no-frills, simple and casual seafood joint in the East Coast has now gone upmarket and expanded into a chain restaurant. And while it's not acquired the commercial prominence of the aforementioned Jumbo and Long Beach, Red House has done pretty well for itself, with 3 centrally located outlets, each with its own crowd of local fans and tourist arrivals. We were at the Robertson Quay branch for dinner on a Monday night, and the sprawling restaurant was actually packed.

The menu's extensive, a mix of the traditional and fusion fare with a modern slant. I say, you'll do well to order the latter, we had a spicy seafood melange and vegetable dish that were outstanding.

Absolutely a must-try, the Spicy Seafood Combination ($32 for small) was this glorious heap of perfectly cooked squid, fish and prawns slathered in a laksa-ish egg-drop sauce. That sauce was seriously ah-mazing; potent, bold and lively with the bright accents of kaffir lime threads.

A classic staple, the Deep Fried Marble Goby ($80 at $10/100gm) was excellent too, beautifully crispy skin, flaky meat, and that soy sauce gravy it was swimming in, ooh mamma mia, fantastico!!

Another must-try was the Braised Gluten Puff & Bamboo Pith ($15 for small) with spinach. This was surprisingly refined, a standard I'd have expected in a fine-dining Cantonese restaurant instead of a low-frills seafood joint.

The Wok-Fried Black Pepper Sri Lankan Crab ($114.40) was disappointingly mediocre. It wasn't crummy, but it sure was unremarkable. The sauce, while flush with garlic, lacked punch, and the crab meat was less than juicy and sweet. The waitress had originally recommended a Scottish brown crab cooked this way, maybe we should have heeded her suggestion.

The dinner finished off well though, the Red House Mee Goreng ($12 for small) was heady and robust, with a delightfully spicy kick countering the piquant sweetness of the tomatoes and seafood.

Red House at The Quayside
60 Robertson Quay
#01-14 The Quayside
Tel: 6735 7666
Open weekdays from 3pm to 10.30pm;
weekends from 11.30am to 10.30pm
Website: www.redhouseseafood.com

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