Greenwood Fish Market

Like the soon-to-be defunct Lana's Cake Shop just next door, Greenwood Fish Market has been a long-time anchor of the chi-chi Greenwood Ave enclave. Touted as a western seafood bistro, service here was excellent (helpful, knowledgeable, and polite), but the food was a hit-and-miss affair. The way I see it, oysters are a must-try, fish catches cooked in the style of grilling or pan-searing are a fail-safe, pastas are a hard pass, and squid, done any way, is a cannot miss.

Always check which oysters are in stock, as they vary seasonally, and what's slated on the menu isn't necessarily what's available that day. The Canadian Golden Mantle ($4) was favoured by the majority for its potently rich brininess; whereas we found the Canadian Mary Point ($4) the sweetest, the Irish one ($4) mildest and most delicate (my favourite), and the French Gillardeau ($8) to be the biggest, baddest and plumpest dude on the block, which probably explains its double pricetag.

The Hot Seafood Platter ($99), a massive medley of half a Boston lobster, grilled prawns, fish skewers, NZ mussels with garlic, littleneck clams in white wine, char-grilled Mediterranean squid, oysters mornay with caramelised onions, grilled octopus in spicy vinaigrette mesclun, and fries looked a rustic mess, but was deliciously value-for-money. Standouts include the squid and octopus, both were executed flawlessly.

The Squid Ink Linguine ($21.95), slicked with the moreish essence of squid ink, was generously dotted with perfectly cooked calamari.

The Scallop Cioppino ($23.95), an unusual but wonderful combination of spinach pesto-ed spaghetti and spicy arrabiatta, was let down by overcooked rubbery scallops.

The White Truffle Linguine ($23.95), of white truffle tapenade swirled into parmesan cream, and flecked with shitake aplenty, got cloying about halfway through.

Ask for recommendations on fish, as the waiter is best placed to inform the day's freshest: This was a recommendation of a premium trawler catch: Char-Grilled Atlantic Halibut ($32.95) delicate and beautifully burnished, drizzled with a velvety herbed butter, and sided by grilled asparagus, broccoli and marinated cherry tomatoes. Fantastic stuff, even if I found a number of bones embedded within.

A trawler catch special, the Pan-Seared Atlantic Cod ($29.95), perfectly flaky and luscious, was served with grilled zucchini, eggplant, broccoli, herbed cherry tomatoes, atop a bed of fluffy mash.

Skip the bread here too, it was dry and insipid.

Greenwood Fish Market
34 Greenwood Ave
Tel: 6467 4950
Open Mondays to Saturdays from 12noon to 10.30pm;
Sundays and PH from 11am to 10.30pm

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